If you are visiting Tokyo in early February, there is a seasonal tradition you can participate in rather than simply observe: Setsubun (節分). This event marks the transition from winter to spring in the traditional calendar and is still practiced across Japan today.
During Setsubun ceremonies, you will hear the familiar chant:
“Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!”
Out with demons, in with good fortune.
From large public gatherings at major temples to small, local ceremonies in residential neighborhoods, Setsubun offers a rare opportunity for visitors to engage directly with a living seasonal custom.
What is Setsubun?
Setsubun literally means “seasonal division.” In contemporary usage, it usually refers to the day immediately before the beginning of spring according to the traditional calendar.
The central ritual is mamemaki, in which roasted soybeans (fukumame, or “fortune beans”) are thrown to symbolically drive away misfortune, represented by demons (oni), and to invite good fortune into the coming season.
Common customs associated with Setsubun include:
- eating the same number of beans as one’s age, plus one for good luck,
- purchasing seasonal charms,
- and eating ehōmaki, a sushi roll consumed while facing the year’s auspicious direction.
The exact date of Setsubun varies by year, often falling on February 2 or 3. Some temples and shrines also hold events on adjacent days, so it is advisable to check official schedules in advance.
Practical advice for visitors
Arrive early
Popular venues fill quickly, especially before the bean-throwing ceremonies begin.
Choose your viewing position carefully
Standing near the front can be intense. Those traveling with children, or anyone preferring a calmer experience, may wish to observe from the sides.
Catching beans is not essential
Many locations distribute beans directly or sell official Setsubun packages.
Bring a small bag
Useful for carrying beans or small festival items.
Experiencing Setsubun in Tokyo
Major venues and lesser-known options
Below are ten locations in Tokyo, beginning with well-known sites and moving toward smaller, more localized experiences.
1) Sensō-ji (Asakusa)
Sensō-ji is one of Tokyo’s most prominent sites for Setsubun. The atmosphere is energetic, with large crowds and a distinctly festive mood.
Why visit:
- One of the city’s most established Setsubun events
- Convenient if you are already exploring Asakusa
2) Zōjō-ji (Shiba Park)
Zōjō-ji offers a visually striking setting, with traditional temple buildings framed by Tokyo Tower.
Why visit:
- A contrast between historic architecture and the modern skyline
- Often features large-scale ceremonies
3) Kanda Myōjin (near Akihabara)
Kanda Myōjin is known for ceremonies that feel closely tied to Tokyo’s urban energy.
Why visit:
- Processions and lively ritual atmosphere
- Easy to combine with nearby districts
4) Ikegami Honmon-ji (Ōta)
Ikegami Honmon-ji is a large temple that attracts many locals while remaining less tourist-focused.
Why visit:
- Spacious grounds
- A strong sense of ritual continuity
Smaller and distinctive Setsubun experiences
5) Fukagawa Fudō-dō (Monzen-Nakachō)
Known for its fire rituals, Fukagawa Fudō-dō offers a more intense ceremonial atmosphere during Setsubun.
Why visit:
- Visually powerful rituals
- Located in a neighborhood with traditional character
6) Tokyo Tower (Main Deck)
Setsubun ceremonies are sometimes held inside Tokyo Tower, offering a distinctly modern interpretation of the tradition.
Why visit:
- An unusual setting
- Suitable for visitors with limited time
7) Koami Shrine (Nihonbashi)
Koami Shrine is small but well regarded locally as a place associated with good fortune.
Why visit:
- Quiet, intimate atmosphere
- Central location
8) Kasama Inari Shrine (Tokyo branch)
A neighborhood-scale shrine offering a more modest Setsubun ceremony.
Why visit:
- Less crowded
- A chance to observe local participation
9) Hōsen-ji (Suginami)
Some Setsubun events here include rare processions or performances.
Why visit:
- Uncommon ceremonial elements
- Strong historical atmosphere
10) Ōkunitama Shrine (Fuchū)
Located outside central Tokyo, Ōkunitama Shrine provides a regional-scale festival experience.
Why visit:
- A slower pace
- Suitable for a day trip
Suggested ways to plan your visit
- Single-location visit: Sensō-ji for a classic experience
- Temple and cityscape: Zōjō-ji and Tokyo Tower
- Local atmosphere: Koami Shrine and Fukagawa Fudō-dō
Etiquette and safety
- Follow instructions from shrine and temple staff
- Avoid aggressive movement during ceremonies
- Photography is usually permitted, but flash and obstruction should be avoided









